This hub of the tourist world rules place de l'Opéra, and the legend goes that if you sit here long enough, you'll see someone you know passing by. Huge, grandiose, fashionable, and sometimes brusque and anonymous, it harbors not only Parisians but also, at one time or another, nearly every visiting American--a tradition dating from the end of World War I. Once Emile Zola sat on the terrace; later, Hemingway and Fitzgerald frequented it. The best news for tourists who stop in for a bite is that prices have recently been lowered because of stiff competition in the area. Menu items may include escalope of veal with mushrooms and cream sauce, seafood bourride (stew) in the style of Provence, and beef filet with red-wine/mushroom sauce.